If you’ve been sewing for a while, you’ve probably asked yourself whether it’s worth moving beyond commercial patterns and into drafting your own. Both options have their advantages, but the best choice often depends on your goals, skills, and the type of project you want to make. Let’s break down the differences with some real examples so you can decide which path makes sense for you.

What Do We Mean by “Self-Drafted” and “Commercial” Patterns?

Self-drafted patterns are those you create yourself, usually starting from a bodice or trouser block drafted to your own measurements. You can design and adapt freely, which makes them highly personal and flexible. For example, you might draft a bodice block that fits your shoulders exactly, then use it again and again to create tops, dresses, or jackets with perfect fit.

Commercial patterns, on the other hand, are those you buy from established brands or independent designers. They come pre-graded in multiple sizes, complete with instructions and styling details. Think of the old school Vogue pattern books that you'll find in haberdasheries and independent pattern designers who created downloadable PDF patterns. You can choose your size, cut the paper, and follow along step by step.

Understanding the difference matters because it influences fit, design freedom, cost, and how you learn new techniques.

Pros and Cons of Self-Drafting

Pros:

• Perfect fit from the start: Because you’re working from your own measurements, self-drafted garments can solve many of the common fit issues that crop up with commercial patterns. For example, if you usually struggle with gaping necklines, your block can eliminate that problem from the beginning.
  

• Unlimited design freedom: You can blend a fitted bodice with a pleated skirt, change seam placements, or adapt a pencil skirt into a wrap version—all without needing to buy a new pattern.
  

• Skill-building: Each project deepens your knowledge of balance, proportion, and construction. Many sewists use resources like Metric Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich or Pattern Making For Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong for a budget friendly option.

  

  
  

Cons:

• Time-consuming: Drafting requires measuring, testing, and sometimes re-drafting. It’s rarely a “one evening” project.
  

• Steep learning curve: Beginners can feel overwhelmed. Misjudging ease or forgetting seam allowances can throw off the entire fit.
  

• Room for error: Without instructions as a safety net, mistakes in drafting can lead to wasted fabric and frustration.
  

Pros and Cons of Commercial Patterns

Pros:

• Convenience and speed: A simple dress pattern, for example, lets you start cutting fabric within an hour. Perfect for weekend makes.
  

• Wide variety of styles: Vogue often releases runway-inspired designs, while indie brands offer more modern, everyday garments. There’s almost always something out there to suit your taste.
  

• Learning opportunities: Patterns often teach as you go. One pattern might walk you through French seams, while another could introduce tailoring techniques.

Cons:

• Fit issues: Graded sizes don’t always reflect real body shapes. One size 10 pattern might fit your bust but gape at the waist, while another could feel tight in the rise. Alterations are often necessary.
  
  

• Limited customisation: You can shorten sleeves or tweak hemlines, but bigger changes (like altering necklines) push you back towards redrafting.
  
  

• Cost over time: Buying patterns can add up quickly. At £10–£15 each, they’re an investment compared with a reusable self-drafted block.
  

So, Which One’s Best for You?

Here’s a simple comparison to help you weigh the options:

Self-Drafted | Commercial Patterns

Fit: Tailored to your body | Often requires alteration

Time: Slower to create | Faster to use

Creativity: Unlimited | Limited to given styles

Cost: One block, endless reuse | Adds up over time

Learning: Teaches drafting skills | Teaches sewing techniques

In reality, most sewists benefit from using both. Commercial patterns are great for quick projects or when you want to try a new style. Self-drafting is ideal for creating clothes that fit perfectly and exploring your own design ideas.

Ready to Explore Self-Drafting?

If you’re curious about working with your own drafted blocks, the next step is learning how to actually use them in real projects. My masterclass, How to Draft Your Own Clothes, is designed to guide you through that process with clear, step-by-step support.

FAQs

1. Do I need advanced sewing skills to try self-drafting?
Not necessarily. Basic sewing knowledge helps, but the real key is patience and willingness to learn. Beginners can start with simple blocks and build up gradually.

2. Can I mix commercial and self-drafted patterns in one project?
Yes. Many sewists combine a commercial pattern for one garment section (like sleeves) with a self-drafted bodice or skirt. It’s a practical way to transition into drafting without going all in.

3. How do I know if a commercial pattern will fit me well?
Check the finished garment measurements (usually printed on the envelope or instructions). These give a clearer idea of fit than body measurements alone.

4. Is drafting my own block really worth the effort?
Absolutely. While it takes time upfront, a personal block becomes a reusable foundation for countless garments, saving fitting headaches later.

5. What’s the best first step if I want to move from commercial to self-drafted patterns?
Start by learning how to draft and fit a bodice block. Once you have a well-fitting block, you can adapt it into tops, dresses, and beyond. From there, you’ll find the transition much easier.