Professional Tips For Making Your Own Wedding Dress Pattern
I think all my students who have made their own wedding dresses will agree that it is one of the most special and rewarding sewing projects they’ve done.
Every bride glows on the special day, but imagine adding the extra pride of knowing you’ve handmade your dress for that special moment.
It’s pure magic!
Sewing your own wedding dress is a fun and beautiful process
Fabric shopping for silks and lace, drafting a beautiful pattern and taking your time to create that perfect fit, it’s a lot of fun!
But like all big sewing projects, there can also be a few things to watch out for…
A couple of bumps along the way that are hard to avoid if you don’t have some prior experience or base knowledge in this area!
That’s where I come in, I’m here to guide you through some key parts of the process and help you with some very important pattern drafting, construction and sewing tips.
Let's start at the beginning, in the fabric store!
Fabric Choice Is Key
A soft fabric will create a softer, more romantic style and a more structured fabric will create something with a more dramatic silhouette with body.
Think soft silk satins for things like bias gowns.
Chiffons for draped floaty dresses.
And taffeta and duchess satin for larger more ball gown style designs.
Plan Your Drafting
You wouldn’t start a road trip without having a destination in mind, so don’t start your pattern drafting without a clear idea of what you’re trying to achieve.
(That doesn’t mean you can’t change and develop your design as you go. By all means get creative and change it up once you’ve got your first toile!)
Have your design clearly sketched out, and make sure that you’ve considered any inside support that might be needed.
The Inside Is As important As The Outside
The outside fabric is extremely important, but if the inside isn’t given as much (or more thought) than the outer then it’s never going to give you that special couture gown feel.
Depending on your design will need to consider adding some of these features, fabrics and supports:
✂️ Fusing (or non-fusible interlayers)
✂️Net or tulle layers under the skirt (petticoat style!)
✂️ Mount pieces to hold any drapes in place
✂️ Inner corset and boning
✂️ Waist stays
✂️ Power-mesh panels
✂️ Linings & facings
✂️ Bust cups
✂️ Underwires
✂️ Pockets & clever features
Measure Twice, Cut Once
The pattern drafting is where the real magic happens.
This is where we inject the luxury, couture fit and finish!
Here are some tips, tricks and things to keep in mind when drafting your own wedding dress pattern:
Pick The Right Starting Point
This might your basic block or it might be an existing pattern that is similar to your design. Either way, pick the right pattern for your project and skill level.
Triple Check Your Measurements
Make sure you've taken your body measurements correctly and that your pattern is the correct size and proportions for your body.
Create Accurate Patterns
Accuracy is your friend in pattern cutting. A few millimetres doesn't sound like much, but multiply that around the garment and suddenly you've got a garment a few sizes too big.
Step by Step Drafting
Drafting a whole dress can feel a bit overwhelming at first. There's a lot to do! But breaking that process down into smaller steps will make it more manageable and less scary.
Contour Your Pattern
Contouring...the magic pattern cutting trick! Make sure you're adding contouring and extra shaping to any necklines, busts, waists and seams. Get one step ahead with your fitting!
Create Support Inside
The inner construction of your wedding dress will be what makes or breaks it. Pay very special attention to what you create here, and don't be afraid to experiment with different fusings and techniques.
Already Stitched Your First Toile?
Firstly, take a moment to congratulate yourself. Finishing your first toile is a huge achievement, well done!
Now, I want you to pay special attention to the next thing we’re that talking about.
It’s an essential stage of the sewing process, but one that I know many brides dread…
The Fitting!
Some of you will have drafted your own pattern, others might be using a commercial pattern or a couple that you’ve hacked together to create your dream dress.
Either way, the fitting stage is when you really see what you’re working with!
This is also when I see brides start to panic or think they’ve bitten off more than they can chew.
(spoiler alert…you haven’t. It’s all going to be fine, I promise!)
Fitting and toiling is such an important step when it comes to making your own wedding dress.
This is your chance to assess and critique your design and pattern cutting work.
Check that you’re happy with the fit, and don’t be afraid to pin something out or add an extra frill. Or even to chop a bit off!
It’s your toile, so get creative!
Also check that the inner construction that you’ve chosen has worked, and remember that you can change, amend and tweak that too!
And don’t be afraid to make a second toile if you’re making big changes. I often make multiple toile for my made to measure brides.
Sometimes 3 or 4 are needed and there’s nothing wrong with that!
On The Big Day...
We’re all familiar with that glowing feeling of pride that comes with the sentence
“Thanks, I made it!”
That is MAGNIFIED when it’s your wedding dress.
So enjoy it, soak it all up.
You’ve made your dream dress, for your dream day…What a special moment!
My only tip here is have fun, and keep a needle and thread handy just in case there’s a small mishap.
Need Help Drafting
Your Wedding Dress Pattern?
If ever there was time to invest in your knowledge and get expert help to guide you through a drafting process, this is it!
Don’t fight through endless toiles and confusion, this is your wedding dress…make the process and enjoyable as possible!
Join my Design & Draft Evening Dresses course and get an inside look into the world of luxury gowns.
We dive deep into the drafting, inner construction and finishes of four very unique dresses.
You’ll learn how to create corsets, individual details, dramatic skirts, low backs, bust cups and SO MUCH MORE.
It gets better though…
The final part of the course is where you take your new skills and design your dream dress (this is where your wedding dress comes to life!)
With my help and your new skills you’ll design and draft your own showstopping wedding dress!
